Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register
Rockgrrl Discussion Forum
  Welcome to the ReOpening of our forum!
  HomeHelpSearchLoginRegister Rockgrrl.com Homepage Rockgrrl Shop  
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send Topic Print
chest harness (Read 2981 times)
overlyhangingout
Newbies
*
Offline


Climber

Posts: 2
chest harness
Oct 30th, 2010 at 9:38pm
 
I recently had a long lead fall and fractured my back. I am very top heavy and tend to tip when falling any distance. I even have a women's specific harness and it helps for short falls but not longer ones. Now that I have sustained this back injury I was told I must never fall this way again. Have any other women had this problem out there?
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
Rockgrrl Admin
YaBB Administrator
*****
Offline


Climb on!

Posts: 29
California
Gender: female
Re: chest harness
Reply #1 - Nov 1st, 2010 at 3:01pm
 
Sorry to hear about your fall!

I haven't had this problem but I'm asking around to see if others can help you out so hopefully someone will have some advice for you.
Back to top
 

~ Rockgrrl
aka Eileen
WWW  
IP Logged
 
climbingguy123
Newbies
*
Offline


Climber

Posts: 2
Gender: male
Re: chest harness
Reply #2 - Nov 1st, 2010 at 3:55pm
 
I'm sorry to hear about your accident. It is unreasonable for you to believe that you can, by using a proper harness, always avoid an inverted fall. Things happen. Gear pulls. Ropes catch ankles. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTQhAYR1j40

  The information you've given as a preamble to your request raises questions in my mind that you may wish to address in order to get proper advice from the forum.  Here are the questions I have:
1. You've broken your back in a climbing accident, and your doctor's advice is limited to "you can't fall upside down again"? This seems like it must be selective hearing, or reporting on your part. To whit: if your (now fortunately healed) back is fragile enough that an inverted fall will damage it, how can it be the case that a swinging fall, or a longer "snapping fall" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJEopoD-YYI would not also damage it? What about a longer non-inverted fall away from the rock that ended with you impacting the rock with your feet at speed, snapping your head and back forward?
2. Taking even a perfect fall after placing your first piece, before you have much rope out, can creates forces in the 5Kn range http://www.myoan.net/climbart/climbforcecal.htmlwhich are transferred to the harness (seat and chest) attachment points on your body, which are then transferred to your back and pelvis...how much force in even a good fall can your back safely absorb?

  With these questions, I mean to point out that continuing to lead climb with a spine that has an injury related limitation is conscious acknowledgment that you will be putting yourself into impact and non-impact situations that will stress it regardless of whether you'll be inverted in the fall. I'll even omit the discussion of damage that you might suffer during an unexpected impact fall like this guyhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTQcbnfiEYk who only broke his tailbone but cracked two vertebrae.

  You may wish to ask yourself if there are other awesome sports that you might want to investigate while you discover/acquaint yourself more fully with the characteristics of your post-injury back.  Not saying "never climb". Saying, "think wider to include lower-impact, non-climbing sports" as you come back. Kayaking (ocean),surfing, sailing, trail running, aerial yoga, board sailing, x country skiing, ultra light backpacking......all awesome sports which have typically lower impact forces than climbing falls, but all of which should be evaluated with an eye toward which part of your back can no longer be stressed (i.e. WW kayaking can stress lower/mid back at contact point with boat's back brace, etc)

There is a whole world of awesome sport out there, and having (and keeping) an intact spine is worth more than a tunnel visioned commitment to pursuing only one of them with rock climbing. If you were my friend, this is what I'd strongly encourage. It's what I did after having two vertebrae fused.

   Cheers Wink
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
overlyhangingout
Newbies
*
Offline


Climber

Posts: 2
Re: chest harness
Reply #3 - Nov 1st, 2010 at 6:24pm
 
Thank you "climbing guy" for the wake up call!!! I just got news from the specialist today...it is worse than I thought... and I will be out for some time. I do love sea kayaking and did a great 9 day trip this summer. I also hike alot and ww kayak (although ww might be out now too for a while) Cry
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
climbingguy123
Newbies
*
Offline


Climber

Posts: 2
Gender: male
Re: chest harness
Reply #4 - Nov 1st, 2010 at 8:51pm
 
Hang in there Overly.... use the time to explore some of the other great sports..getting out and doing it is the trick, it doesn't have to be climbing right now.

  I got pretty seriously injured and ended up taking a hiatus from climbing....I used that time to renew my acquaintance/increase proficiency in several of the sports I listed in my reply to you (I WW and ocean paddle as well, boardsail, sail, etc, etc).....when I came back to climbing, it was with a changed style that benefited from the time I spent focusing on the other sports. It helped my climbing by improving my style a lot...I discarded my "damn the torpedoes" approach and as a result, learned to follow the flow of myself on the rock, and learned to inspect cruxes and downclimb to rests before firing them....I learned a bunch of ways to use the rock to manufacture rests that had been invisible to me before, and learned to invent micro rests for hands/arms when needed.

  It's all good. Life is 5% what happens to you, and 95% how you respond to what happens to you, IMO. You'll come back to climbing when you're ready, and you'll have a blast and learn a ton in the meantime. Plus? It'll get you ready for that sailing/paddling/diving/kiteboarding/climbing dream trip you've got on your calendar someday off in the future Wink
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAoRM2FYsbw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-iBz5UMU2w
http://www.thecleanestline.com/2010/07/greenland-vertical-sailing-the-devils-bre...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2yt7i5wBdg&NR=1

  Cheers!
Back to top
 
 
IP Logged
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send Topic Print