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Climbing Ethics (Read 1828 times)
Ex Member

Climbing Ethics
Sep 10th, 2005 at 3:08am
Hello fellow climbers, I am currently undertaking my thesis as part of my undergraduate degree in mech eng. My topic is on the safety of cliff face bolts.

To assist in my research I wish some comments about bolting ethics between nations. I would like to know the general thoughts on bolting in the UK, France, USA, Australia and New Zealand. Any information on other nations is also welcome.

Comments regarding popularity, any views between trad and sport if bolting is accepted or allowed only in certain areas.

My other question is about the spacing of bolts on climbs, what is a genarally acceptable distance, given each climb is different what conditions see bolts spaced closer together or further apart, does it depend on the grade of the climb?

Cheers all.

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Re: Climbing Ethics
Reply #1 - Mar 23rd, 2006 at 9:07pm
Just one opinion, but here ya go.  Crack, I don't care where, shouldn't be bolted.  If someone wants to climb a crack but is afraid to lead it on trad gear, then they are just not ready.  That might sound mean, but the less damage we can do to rock the better.

Sport is different, I am not against bolts at all, but let's not go crazy.  I live in colorado and sometimes go to a popular sport place called Shelf road.  It is getting a bit ridiculous with how low the starting bolt is and how close together the bolts are.  My feeling is that these routes are bolted by people who shouldn't be putting up routes.  I am all about new climbers pushing them selves, but lets not make it too easy.  A HUGE part of climbing, and especially leading, trad or sport or even aid, is to scare the shit out of yourself.  If you never scare your self you are really missing out. 

Long story short, bolt only if you have too, and try not to put them too close together while still making sure you want deck out.
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